Active Ingredients

Active ingredients are ingredients in products that directly help skin conditions and address skin issues. The effectiveness of their claims are backed up by data and regulated by FDA to a level of certainty. 

Typical active ingredients you'll see for skin conditions/issues are:

• Oily Skin: Salicylic Acid (BHA), Glycolic Acid (AHA), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Hyaluronic Acid, Retinoids (Vitamin A), other BHAs and AHAs
• Acne-Prone Skin: Salicylic Acid (BHA), Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid, Glycolic Acid (AHA)
• Dry Skin: Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Lactic Acid (AHA), Polyglutamic Acid (PHA), Vitamin E, Ceramides
• Combination Skin: Hyaluronic Acid, AHAs, BHAs, Vitamin C, Ceramides
• Aging: Peptides, Ceramides, Retinoids (Vitamin A), Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Hyaluronic Acid
• Pigmentation: Hyaluronic Acid, Glycolic Acid (AHA), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Vitamin C, Retinoids (Vitamin A)
• Inflammation: Salicylic Acid (BHA), Retinoids (Vitamin A), Ceramides, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

 

 

Active Ingredient	Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHA)
Variants	Salicylic Acid (ie. Salicylate, Sodium Salicylate, Willow Extract), Beta Hydroxybutanoic Acid, Tropic Acid, Trethocanic Acid
Type	Chemical exfoliant (surface)
Benefits	exfoliator; removes dead skin cells sebum control; remove excess oil improve skin texture antibacterial; treats acne prevents whiteheads, blackheads, and pimples anti-aging; reduces fine lines and wrinkles
Best for Skin Types	Oily skin and acne-prone skin. All skin types can benefit with proper concentration.
Pair With	Sun protection (if using during the day)
Avoid Using With	AHAs Retinoids Vitamin C.

 

Active Ingredient	Poly-Hydroxy Acids (PHA)
Variants	Gluconolactone, Lactobionic Acid, Galactose
Type	Chemical exfoliant (surface)
Benefits	exfoliator; removes dead skin cells non-irritating and anti-inflammatory; great for sensitive skin because of their large size (larger than AHAs) improve skin texture antioxidant; brighten pigmentation or dark spots hydrating; humectants reinforces elasticity in skin
Best for Skin Types	Oily skin and acne-prone skin but safe for all skin types.
Pair With	Other acids in low concentration Sun protection (if using during the day)
Avoid Using With	Other acids in high concentrations.

 

Active Ingredient	Hyaluronic Acid
Variants	Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Type	Hydrator
Benefits	hydrating; humectant anti-aging; reduces fine lines and wrinkles accelerates healing of skin non-irritating and anti-inflammatory; great for sensitive skin improve skin texture increase skin elasticity treats eczema
Best for Skin Types	Dry skin but safe for all skin types.
Pair With	Vitamin C Vitamin B5 Glycolic Acid
Avoid Using With	None

 

Active Ingredient	Niacinamide (form of Vitamin B3)
Variants	Also called Nicotinamide
Type	Brightener
Benefits	brightening dark spots/pigmentation anti-aging; reduces fine lines and wrinkles non-irritating and anti-inflammatory; great for sensitive skin treats acne, eczema, rosacea, etc.
Best for Skin Types	All skin types.
Pair With	Other antioxidants
Avoid Using With	None

 

Active Ingredient	Vitamin C
Variants	L-Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, Calcium Ascorbte, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Ascorbyl Glucosamine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascobate
Type	Antioxidant
Benefits	brightening dark spots/pigmentation antioxidant; protects against environmental stressors causing sun damage such as pigmentation, fine lines, uneven skintone, etc. accelerates healing of skin evens skintone anti-aging; promotes collagen production and cell turnover
Best for Skin Types	Most skin types. Caution shall be used for oily skin and sensitive skin.
Pair With	Other antioxidants Vitamin E
Avoid Using With	AHAs BHAs Retinol Benzoyl Peroxide Other acids

 

Active Ingredient	Retinoids (Vitamin A derivatives)
Variants	Retinyl Palmitate, Retinaldehyde, Retinol, Tretinoin, Tazarotene, Adapalene
Type	Antioxidant
Benefits	antioxidant; protects against environmental stressors causing sun damage such as pigmentation, fine lines, uneven skintone, etc. anti-aging; promotes collagen production and cell turnover sebum control; remove excess oil improves skin texture evens skintone treats acne
Best for Skin Types	Oily skin and acne-prone skin EXCEPT for dry skin as it can be drying.
Pair With	Hydrators Niacinamide Hyaluronic Acid Ceramides
Avoid Using With	Vitamin C Exfoliators (physical and chemical) AHAs BHAs Benzoyl Peroxide Astringents

 

Active Ingredient	Retinol (Vitamin A)
Variants	None
Type	Antioxidant, Retinoid
Benefits	antioxidant; protects against environmental stressors causing sun damage such as pigmentation, fine lines, uneven skintone, etc. anti-aging; promotes collagen production and cell turnover sebum control; remove excess oil improves skin texture evens skintone treats acne
Best for Skin Types	Most skin types EXCEPT sensitive skin or with flare ups like eczema, rosacea, etc.
Pair With	Hydrators Niacinamide Hyaluronic Acid Ceramides
Avoid Using With	Vitamin C Exfoliators (physical and chemical) AHAs BHAs Benzoyl Peroxide Astringents

 

Active Ingredient	Polypeptides (Peptides)
Variants	None
Type	Protein
Benefits	anti-aging; promotes collagen production and cell turnover (strengthen skin barrier) sebum control; remove excess oil improves skin texture evens skintone treats acne retain moisture; from collagen boost non-irritating and anti-inflammatory; great for sensitive skin increase skin elasticity
Best for Skin Types	All skin types.
Pair With	Exfoliators
Avoid Using With	AHAs

 

Active Ingredient	Ceramides
Variants	None
Type	Moisturizer
Benefits	anti-aging; promotes cell turnover improves skin texture retain moisture; from restoring skin barrier non-irritating and anti-inflammatory; great for sensitive skin protects against environmental damage increase skin elasticity
Best for Skin Types	Dry skin and all skin types.
Pair With	Other ceramides Cholesterol Fatty acids
Avoid Using With	None